David Williams and Jennifer Ott new book launch at MOHAI

Book Launch at Mohai March 24, 2026 

 

Local authors David Williams and Jennifer Ott will be giving a presentation at MOHAI on Tuesday March 24, which will accompany their new book launch. Here's a link to the MOHAI post for further information. The event is free with registration by following the link. This is an updated version of their 2017 book, Waterway, which told the story of the construction of the Lake Washington Ship Canal and the Chittenden Locks. A highly detailed story of the project from it's inception in the late 1800's through it's construction, completion in 1916 and was published just before the Centennial Anniversary of it's official dedication on July 4, 1917.

 

Mohai book launch 

 

 

The brochure below was created from historical maps and documents and was included in a time capsule for the Army Corps of Engineers, to be opened in 2075. It uses the same type of records and maps preserved and relating to the construction of the Ship Canal and Chittenden Locks. It gives a flavor of the historical value sure to be present in the author's new release.

 

 

 

Ballard Locks & Puget Sound Archaeology

From http://ballardlocks.org/ comes an invitation to attend a talk by the Suquamish Historic Preservation Officer which should be of great interest to many.  You can use the following link to learn more and register as seating will be limited to 50 people.

Description of the event


"Discover a bit of ancient history connected with the Locks. Dennis Lewarch, Suquamish Tribal Historic Preservation Officer, will address how sea level rise after the most recent Ice Age, 10,000 years ago, likely affected land use practice by the first arrivals to the Puget. Sea levels were a few hundred feet lower when the earliest inhabitants arrived and many things have changed since then. Dennis offers an interesting glimpse into the changes that took place as sea level rise changed both living conditions and food sources."

Be sure to look around on the ballardlocks.org site to find many other activities and talks of interest to the community.

History Month Weekend Activities

This weekend, May 20th and  21st will have a special celebration of Community Gardening, along with other activities and displays at the Locks. The Carl English Botanical Gardens certainly benefits from its many volunteers who help out throughout the year, not to mention the benefits enjoyed from the visitors who come from all corners of the globe to take in the beauty of the gardens and many activities happening around the clock at the locks.

The Administration Building has displays from local historical and neighborhood groups and our local HistoryLink with their Waterlines map, which was part of the Waterlines exhibit at the Burke Museum. There will be some local volunteers and historians present from 1:00 to 3:00 pm, to answer questions and talk about some of the items on display. Bring your own stories and curiosity and enjoy another weekend at one of Seattle's most popular attractions.

Making The Cut Website goes online

Thanks to a grant from 4 Culture, a new website has been launched with the goal of providing links to ongoing events commemorating the Centennial Anniversary of the Lake Washington Ship Canal and the Chittenden Locks. Over the next year, there will be a myriad of activities highlighting various aspects of the water way and how it affected Seattle and surrounding cities.

http://makingthecut100.org/

Many thanks to Stephen Schildbach for the design and creation of the site.

Totems by the Locks

Totem opposite the locks at Red Mill Totem House

A gentleman recently asked a question about the existence of totem poles on the Ballard Locks property.  He remembered visiting the locks about 50 years ago and noticing several totems poles positioned by the small lock.  He asked if the Archival/History Unit could verify his recollection. 

So far, we have not been able to verify that the locks ever had any totem poles within its boundaries.   We did find a 1939 newspaper article about a replica of a single totem pole that was being carved in the Haida style.  At that time, it was going to be installed in front of a curio shop at the corner of Seaview and 32nd Avenue North West just across from the Ballard locks.

More recently and far more well-known, is "The Story of North Island" totem pole located by the Montlake Cut on the southeast bank.  It is the work of Haida Chief John Dewey Wallace.  He carved it in Alaska in 1937 for display outside of a cannery.  When the cannery closed, the totem pole was removed and lost to public view until 1981 when it resurfaced and was purchased by a local preservation group.  It was dedicated in 1983 and still stands on property owned by the US Army Corps of Engineers with the actual statue owned by the city of Seattle.  In keeping with tribal tradition, the totem overlooks the water.

To readers of blog:  if you know of or have heard about the existence of totem poles in the actual Ballard Locks area, please contact the FOBL.

susanatthelocks@gmail.com

A View of the Locks Over Time

Early shot of the Government Locks

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers has an extensive archival research collection available to the public. It includes primary documents, publication clippings, books reports and over 8,000 photographs which have been scanned and digitized by volunteers. The archive is open by appointment only. While items cannot be checked out, they can be viewed and studied at the locks. The earliest photographs date back to 1899, include many of the locks during construction, and continue through the '90's, with scenes of historic interest as well as images depicting the day to day operations at the locks.

Below are a small sample of images which are in the collection. Some of these images are actually in slide format and may or may not have a corresponding photo. Currently we do not have viewing equipment for the slide collection.

If you are interested in viewing the archive, or researching the stories behind any of these images, or any other aspect of the locks or Carl English Garden history, please contact Susan Connole at: susanatthelocks@gmail.com for more information.

Read below the fold and enjoy the pictures.

100 Years Ago This Month: Major Cavanaugh Begins Work in Seattle

August 1, 1911 – Major James Bates Cavanaugh is assigned to the Corps of Engineers Seattle District to oversee the construction of the locks and the Lake Washington Ship Canal.

It was Maj. Hiram M. Chittenden whose vision and political skills resulted in the placement of the locks at Salmon Bay, however he had to take early medical retirement in 1909. Major C.W. Kutz served as head of the Seattle District until Cavanaugh was appointed in 1911.



James Bates Cavanaugh's West Point Graduation photo, Class of 1892.

Major Cavanaugh was then working in Washington D.C. as Assistant to the Chief of Engineers. He had graduated first in his class from West Point Military Academy (1892) and was an extremely capable and well-respected officer. He had worked on many river and harbor projects around the country, as well as teaching Field Engineering at the Post School for Officers. He was selected for the Seattle assignment, not only for his technical experience, but his proven diplomatic skills that were needed to complete this enormous engineering project.

In March 1915 he was promoted to Lt. Colonel; then in April 1917, with the United States now involved in World War I, he was assigned to command the 18th Engineers at American Lake, WA (now Joint Base Lewis/McChord) and promoted to Colonel prior to sailing for France in July 1917. Cavanaugh House is named in his honor.


Information for this article was gathered from the U.S.Military Academy/West Point and the Seattle District Army Corps of Engineers.

House on the Hill at the Locks: Cavanaugh House

Did you ever wonder who lives in the white house on the hill in the garden at the Chittenden Locks?

Photo 1: Cavanaugh House upon completion in 1913

Cavanaugh House, named for Col. James Bates Cavanaugh, the engineer in charge of locks construction from 1911 to 1917, is home to the Army Corps of Engineer’s Chief Engineer during their 3-year tenure with the Seattle District.

Photo 2: Cavanaugh’s signature on house blueprints; every drawing and blueprint for the locks was hand drawn and bears Cavanaugh’s signature of approval.

Completed in 1913 for a total cost of $7,840, it was one of the first concrete homes built in Seattle. There is no specific architect named on the drawings, but it is a modest, symmetric design common to the era. Amazingly, it was completed within 75 days of the construction contract being signed. Originally it was intended to be the home for the Locks’ electrician so they would be close at hand if a fuse blew any time day or night. However most electricians already lived nearby and chose to stay in their own homes. The house went unoccupied for long periods of time and fell into disrepair.

In 1966 it was proposed that the house be renovated to become the official residence of the Chief Engineer/Seattle District. Upon completion of the remodel it was dedicated as Cavanaugh House on January 16, 1967 and a permanent plaque installed December 10, 1974.

Photo 3: By February of 1915, the lock walls are formed, smoke from the sawmills around Salmon Bay hovers in the background.

Photo 4: Note the construction progress in October 1915, the lower cofferdam has been removed and the north terraces have been graded.

As the first completed structure of the huge Lake Washington Ship Canal project, early photos show the house standing isolated among the chaos of locks construction. Gradually it was surrounded by the locks structures and as Carl S. English, Jr. developed the gardens it became part of the landscape. While situated in a public garden, Cavanaugh House is a private home and is closed to the public.

Photo 5: This photo ca. 1920 taken from the south side of the administration building shows the house standing proudly on the hill.

Photo 6: In this photo ca. 1950 we see the handiwork of Carl English Jr.

Photo 7: Cavanaugh House today.

The name Hiram Chittenden is familiar to the local populace but James B. Cavanaugh is lesser known. Both men were extraordinary engineers who made valuable contributions to our city and our country. Check the previous blog article about Chittenden and stay tuned for more about Colonel Cavanaugh coming soon.

Information for this article was sourced from USACE Publication “Engin-Ears”, August 1979

Steelhead at the Locks (or not.)

Onchorynchus mykiss is a mouthful in more ways than one. It is tricky to say, and it tastes delicious! It’s also a fish that is very rarely seen in the viewing window of the fish ladder. At one time there were two to three thousand steelhead migrating through the Chittenden Locks in winter. Nowadays you are quite lucky to see just one!

What are Steelhead?

Steelhead are a type of Pacific salmon. Like other Pacific salmon, they rear in fresh water until they become smolts, then migrate to the ocean. This stage can last anywhere from about one to four years.

Once in the ocean, they can travel thousands of miles; they keep getting larger as they find larger food sources, usually in colder waters. This stage can also last from one to four years. Upon returning to their native streams, they will deposit eggs. Unlike their cousins the Coho, Chinook, Sockeye, Chum, and Pink salmons, the Steelhead are not always destined to die after they spawn; they may return to the ocean several times in their lives. In that way they are more similar to their distant cousins the Atlantic salmon. Steelhead are quite difficult to track, but some have been tagged and are known to have traveled all the way from the Columbia River basin to the Sea of Japan and back, in their lifetime.

If an Onchorynchus mykiss spends its entire life in fresh water, it is called a Rainbow Trout. They are the same species, but have differing lifestyles. Steelhead normally weigh about 8-11 pounds, but can get as hefty as 40 pounds or more. They are quite silvery in color, with many spots on all parts of their bodies, and a reddish or rainbow hue along their sides.

The run of Steelhead that came through the locks was a winter run and was therefore fully mature when they returned upstream. Summer runs come back younger and stay in the rivers until they mature.

So, What Happened to the Steelhead at the Locks?

The numbers of Steelhead have gone from about 2600 in 1983 to less than 10 in more recent years. It is difficult to get any numbers after 2008, when four fish were counted in the rivers that feed into Lake Washington. At that time only two redds were found; a redd is a nest with eggs in it.

The numbers of these fish in the Lake Washington system are so low that they seem to be on the verge of extinction. With that said, a few are seen every year and there are probably some that pass through without being seen or identified at all.

There are many factors that have contributed to their decline, such as destruction of habitat, pollution, man-made obstacles such as dams, ocean conditions and over-harvesting. It is also possible that some have decided to remain in fresh water and essentially convert to their Rainbow Trout mode. We also know that Steelhead prefer a fast, cold river to breed and rear in. Unfortunately, the water above the Locks is warmer than it was at one time, due to the urbanization of the environment.

Of all the factors have affected the Steelhead, none is as obvious and dramatic as the yearly visitation of the California sea lions. The most famous of these hungry predators was called Herschel. He arrived in 1983 and discovered that steelhead were pretty easy pickings at the Locks. That was when the steelhead run first began to decline.

Herschel, and other large male sea lions voraciously ate over half of the returning steelhead that returned to the locks for several years in a row. Although there were often as many as 40 or more sea lions in the area, it was observed that most of the devastation was usually caused by two or three of the largest ones.

While the steelhead counts have continued to decline, the sea lion counts have been growing. In 1972 the Marine Mammal Protection Act was first enacted. Since that protection was put in place, the number of California sea lions increased from around 50,000 to around 250,000. Each year shows a small percentage of increased population growth.

Numerous methods were employed to deter these Pinnipeds, (fin-footed mammals), but nothing was very effective. Some of the techniques used were underwater firecrackers, known as seal bombs; rubber bullets; acoustic harassment devices; nets; and poisoned fish. The sea lions were also trucked several times to other areas as far away as California, but always swam back. At best, these methods slowed the sea lions down, but not for long. Each time, they got wiser and more sure of themselves.

Meanwhile, the steelhead run has not been able to recover. The original run was a wild run; at one point a hatchery run was introduced with the hope of enhancing the numbers. Unfortunately, they competed with the wild fish instead.

There is no easy answer to this steelhead situation. What will become of the once wild steelhead run in Lake Washington? If a run still exists will it ever grow? Perhaps, we will have to go elsewhere to celebrate this beautiful fish, our state fish.

Article written for FoBL Blog by Stacey Gilbert

Information for this article was sourced from:

“Stock Report-Lake Washington Winter Steelhead.” wdfw.wa.gov 2009. 01 February, 2011. http://fortress.wa.gov/dfw/gispublic/apps/salmonscape/salmonscapeJSP/summaryStockReport.jsp?SasiStkNum=6154

Guterson, David. ”This Seal Doesn’t Have Everyone’s Approval.” http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com 1990. 23 January 2011. http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1137071/index.htm

“Steelhead.” www.kingcounty.gov. 2008. 05 January, 2011. http://www.kingcounty.gov/environment/animalsAndPlants/salmon-and-trout/identification/steelhead.aspx

Snow on the Water

Seattleites readily remember the snow storm that paralyzed the city last November, resulting in power outages, freeway gridlock, buses sideways in the streets, people stranded.

Guess what? History repeats itself. Ninety-five years ago...



January 31, 1916 started out like any other cold, damp winter day in the city. Then mid-morning it started to snow; it kept coming down all day and on into the night. The storm continued steadily for 2 days: schools were closed, streetcar service was shut down and a snow slide closed the Northern Pacific Railroad’s Stampede Tunnel halting service across the Cascades.

Early afternoon on February 2 the wet snow was so deep it collapsed the roof of the West Seattle Christian Church, and several hours later the dome of St. James Cathedral crashed down under the weight of the heavy snow. The storm left Seattle with 3 feet of snow on the ground.



But over at the government locks in Ballard the workers were focused on something else. The cement work of the large lock was completed and the miter gates installed; it was time to open the valves and admit water in for the very first time. In this photo taken just after noon on Feb. 2, you can see the dark water coming from the filling tunnels, notice the staff on the upstream gate watching as the water pushes into the snow.

There must have been a sense of jubilation and pride that after decades of politics and planning- and 5 years of construction- it worked! Perhaps this group photo was a celebratory one, Chief Engineer Lt. Col. James Cavanaugh and his staff on the steps of the administration building on that momentous day (Cavanaugh is third from right in hat and glasses.) The Corps of Engineers workboat “Swinomish” did a trial lockage the next day, the locks were then used informally until their official dedication on July 4, 1917.



Sources for this article include HistoryLink.org and U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Bebb & Gould Plaque

Excerpted from the Friends of the Ballard Locks website. For full article, see: Administration Building Plaque: Bebb & Gould & Molten Metal.  

Recently, we discovered some background information about the artist who sculpted the original artwork for this plaque. We'll include that here at the beginning of the original article posted back in 2010.

Gary Westwood

A self-trained visual artist, Gary Westwood had a hand in many iconic images of the 1980s, including the Puyallup Fair mascot (a wearable pig’s head made of latex), a panda head and boots for the Kent Police Department’s mascot, a wax caricature of famed sportscaster Wayne Cody for the promotional “Watch Wayne Disappear” diet campaign, and the crab legs worn by singing waiters in a commercial for the Sea Galley restaurant (available on YouTube!).

Westwood’s work on the plaque was more solemn. His daughter, Tisha ValWes, recalls that the two of them visited the raptor exhibit at Woodland Park Zoo to photograph and sketch the eagles resulting in the majestic bird that spreads its wings at the top of the tablet. Westwood also created most of the other elements of the plaque, sculpting them in clay before the images were cast in bronze.

... the following was the original post from 2010 ...

Although originally designed by Bebb & Gould in their plan for the locks buildings and grounds, it was not until 1985 that the Plaque on the East side of the Administration Building was completed. You may have visited the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks many times and observed the plaque, but not know its story. The plaque shown above is attached to the east side exterior wall of the administration building. Although work on the original ship canal buildings and grounds, designed by the firm of Bebb & Gould, was completed in 1922, the plaque was not created until 1985. When the locks underwent an $8 million rehabilitation from 1982 to 1985, the Corps rediscovered the original design drawings for the plaque and decided to have the work completed. The design of the plaque is rich in symbolism including: 1. The Eagle, emblem of the United States, used by the Corps of Engineers in its Coat-of-Arms. 2. The French term “Essayons” which is the motto of the Corps and means “let us try”. 3. The Castle, the symbol of the Corps of Engineers since 1839. The plaque was dedicated in a ceremony in August of 1985 commemorating the rehabilitation project. Completed nearly 70 years after opening of the locks, the plaque looks to the future with a commitment to continuing service to the public. Excerpted from the Friends of the Ballard Locks website. For full article, see: Administration Building Plaque: Bebb & Gould & Molten Metal.

Help Us Confirm: Who's In First?

Researched and Written by Tom O'Grady.

 

On July 4, 1917, the Government Locks of Seattle were opened to great celebration and fanfare.

Although the locks had actually been open and locked thousands of vessels through by this time, this national holiday was chosen to officially mark the completion of a project contemplated for decades and under construction for some five years. The President had sent the Roosevelt, a steamship used by Admiral Peary on his arctic expeditions, to be the head of a nautical parade and thus the first vessel to "officially" use the locks. To send such a noteworthy vessel to attend these ceremonies is clear indication of the importance of the opening of the locks.

While the Roosevelt was tied up in the lock several speeches were delivered by local dignitaries and prominent citizens. In addition a congratulatory telegram from President Roosevelt was also delivered. It read as follows:

"I heartily congratulate Seattle and Washington on the completion of the canal. It is of great consequence commercially and may become of at least as great consequence from the navy standpoint. The event you celebrate is of consequence to the whole country.

Theodore Roosevelt"

Hundreds of boats, canoes and rowboats of all sizes were to join the parade and were waiting in Salmon Bay to join the flotilla as it emerged from the locks and accompany it to the final inland destination inside Lake Washington. Thousands of onlookers had gathered to watch this spectacle all along the canal and there were several spots where the boats stopped to deliver speeches by dignitaries. Exhibitions and entertainment were staged along the route as well. This is how the events of the day have widely been reported.

So far so good.

Enter Elmer N. Reed.

Elmer was a local outdoor enthusiast with a particular passion for canoeing. There are many photos of that day showing dozens of canoes and rowboats among other small craft, all of which had come out to share in the celebration. Elmer was in one of these.

We were recently contacted by his daughter, Pat, who informed us that Elmer had always maintained that in fact, when the gates of the lock were opened to allow entry into the canal to Lake Union, it was actually he who paddled through first!

The history of naval exploration has produced numerous competitions as many nations and individuals sought to be the first to be able to claim they discovered or successfully navigated a particular waterway. Seattle has joined the list of contested naval claims with this new information and it's time to resolve the conflict over who was in first.

Was it Captain E. Blerd who piloted the Roosevelt or the Northwest's own Elmer N. Reed paddling his own canoe?

Do you have any light to shed on this?

Any old photos or other information from the day?

While the picture below clearly shows the Roosevelt from water level and demonstrates that Elmer was in the water on the day, we're looking to find a photo showing the boats leaving the locks.

So, all you historians out there, this is your chance to rewrite history and give Elmer his due.

Photo of the Roosevelt sailing through canal is courtesy of USACE.
Photos of Elmer Reed and his view of the Roosevelt are taken from Pat Reed's family photo album.

Sources for this article include:
Seattle Post Intelligencer, July 4 and 5, 1917
Seattle Times, July 4 and 5, 1917 and
The Ballard Locks by Adam Woog.

Who Was Hiram?

Welcome to the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks! As one of the top 3 tourist sites in Seattle the Locks and adjacent Carl S. English, Jr. Botanical Garden are enjoyed year round by visitors and locals alike.

But who was Chittenden? A local politician? Some rich “bigwig”? No.

Hiram Martin Chittenden, born on a farm in Yorkshire, NY in 1858, was an excellent student and attended Cornell University briefly before transferring to the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, graduating in 1884. He returned home to Yorkshire to marry his high school sweetheart Nettie Parker and waited to start his 3 years of training at the Engineer School of Application in New York City. During this three-month break he studied law with a local attorney, then passed the bar exam and was licensed to practice law in NY state- without ever having attended law school.

His first assignments focused on improvements on the Missouri River system, surveying areas for placement of reservoirs, dams and other flood control installations. He served for a time on the Board of Commissioners for Yosemite and in 1891 he received his first posting to Yellowstone, that huge patch of wilderness that had been made America’s first national park in 1872; Congress had now provided funding to start improvements in the park.

Chittenden was then assigned to projects in Kentucky and Ohio and in 1899 he was returned to Yellowstone to develop a road system; the roads that today lead visitors from one scenic vista to another are the result of Chittenden’s design.

Believing that the North entrance to the Park at Gardiner was “the least interesting of any part of the Park” he designed the stone arch that remains a Yellowstone icon to this day. The single concrete arch bridge he designed to span the Yellowstone River was replaced in 1962 and named the Chittenden Memorial Bridge.

He was a prodigious writer, keeping diaries and journals his entire life. His first book “The Yellowstone National Park: Historical and Descriptive” published in 1895, was developed from his daily notes of working there. He went on to write “The American Fur Trade of the Far West” in 1902, it remains the authoritative text of that era. More books followed as well as numerous papers, reports and published articles.

In 1906 Chittenden was assigned to the Seattle District. For 50 years the local populace had been debating the location of a canal to connect the freshwater lakes Union and Washington with Puget Sound to facilitate the movement of timber and coal resources to the docks in Elliott Bay. Although appearing robust, he was actually in failing health and feeling that Seattle would be his last posting prior to retirement he was determined to make it a success. He met with the various warring factions and was able to gain a consensus among them that the route through Salmon Bay was the best choice. Elimination of the second lock at Montlake reduced the budget and Congress funded the project in 1910.

During his tours of duty his wife Nettie and the children Eleanor, Hiram Jr. and Teddy remained in the family home in St. Louis. Chittenden wrote to the children often with tales of his work experiences and urged them to do well in their studies. When he was home he helped them with their homework, went shopping for their first bicycles and took great enjoyment from his family. When they settled in Seattle he and Nettie entertained often, played cards with friends, and attended local opera and theater productions. His younger brother and his wife moved to Seattle and there were many large family gatherings. Yellowstone remained a favorite vacation destination and the family returned there numerous times.

He retired as a Brigadier General in 1909 and remained in Seattle where he was active in local politics and served as first president of the Port Commission. Too ill to attend the dedication of the Locks on July 4, 1917, he died October 4, 1917.

Chittenden is responsible for the placement of the Locks at the west end of the channel thereby making Salmon Bay a freshwater harbor, the change from wood to concrete as the construction material, and the addition of the smaller lock to conserve water. He developed the salt water intrusion drain system to prevent salt water from migrating upstream and his proposal to divert the Cedar River into Lake Washington provides the necessary flow for the operation of the lock system.

In 1956 the name of the Government Locks was officially changed to the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks in honor of his vision and achievement. The American Society of Civil Engineers designated the Chittenden Locks as a National Historic Engineering Landmark in 1997.

Hiram Chittenden was a successful Army officer, a skilled engineer, a published writer, family man, and above all- a dedicated public servant.

Bibliography

“Hiram Martin Chittenden: His Public Career,” Gordon B. Dobbs, University Press of Kentucky, 1973. {links: Open Library, Amazon}

“The Yellowstone National Park” (edited), Hiram Martin Chittenden, University of Oklahoma Press, 1964. {links: Open Library, original via Google Books}

“H.M. Chittenden: A Western Epic,” Bruce LeRoy, Washington State Historical Society, 1961 {link: Open Library}