Preserving the History of the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks in Seattle, Washington

Contact us at friendsofthelocks@gmail.com

Friday, May 23, 2025

2025 Ballard Locks Music Schedule


Summer is here and it's time for the Ballard Locks concert season to start. Come on over and enjoy free concerts every weekend through the summer at Seattle's historic Chittenden locks. Bring your lawn chairs or picnic blankets and enjoy the music, watch the boats coming and going and watch the salmon returning. It's all free and is one of Seattle's best, family friendly events.




Monday, April 28, 2025

The Crystal S

Researched and written by Tom O'Grady
 
 
While most of the posts on this blog feature aspects of the locks and grounds themselves, or historical events, this post will mark a decided departure from past posts. This is an article where the Ballard Locks are really just part of the backdrop of one of the more dramatic stories we've come across. But the fact that the locks were involved in even the slightest fashion, is all the excuse needed to share a great story.


This is not a drill!

Crystal S crew being rescued by the Bering Sea

The above photo was taken by the cook aboard the Bering Sea as it reached the 5 crew members from the now sunken Crystal S after they had spent the last 3 hours sitting atop their overturned lifeboat after abandoning ship. Although the text accompanying the photograph mentions that they had spent 9 hours adrift, 3 hours seems more accurate, although it might well have been 9 hours until they were landed safely back on shore after the incident.

Before going into what's known of the details of the boat's sinking, let's look into the development of the most crucial piece of equipment which was the primary reason for this story to have had the best of all possible outcomes, given the boat's failure.

Gunnar Guddal

Gunnar Guddal was an immigrant from Norway who came to the US in 1956 and spent some time working in North Dakota as a farmhand as well as venturing up to Alaska where he fought forest fires. His spirit of adventure eventually brought him to Seattle where he started his own company selling equipment to the maritime and fishing interests which were in abundance in Seattle. Having lost his grandfather to a fishing accident in Norway, he was dedicated to preventing such losses if at all possible and spent years in developing what would become perhaps his greatest contribution to the fishing and maritime industry ... the survival suit.

Wikipedia article on survival suits

Gunnar Guddal's survival suit 

Others had been working on versions of survival suits, also called immersion suits, for some time with varying degrees of success. Gunnar had finally designed a suit he was confident in and happy with by the late 1960s and began marketing them specifically with fishermen in mind. This turned out to be not an easy sell as the prevailing attitude was almost one of indifference from those in the industry. Some had a completely fatalistic attitude toward being adrift at sea, as to die from exposure to the elements was considered to be faster and more painless than a struggle against the elements. Others, no doubt, probably felt that if they hadn't needed one before, why bother now? Those of a certain age can look back at the uproar caused in this country when seat belts in cars were being considered as a requirement in automobile manufacturing. But Gunnar would bring his new-fangled survival suits to trade shows for the fishing and maritime industries, sometimes accompanied by his 9 year old daughter Kari, who would demonstrate these survival suits by putting one on herself and floating in a small wading pool on the convention floor.


This is a picture taken from National Fisherman, a trade magazine for the industry, and shows a typical convention for the fishing and related industries. (The amount of sales refers to overall sales, not just survival suits). Trade shows like this one would be an example of the scenes where Gunnar would bring his suits for display, sometimes accompanied by his young daughter or another individual who would provide a live demonstration as you can see in the picture below taken at the same Expo but from 1975.  I think if this caption would be run today the editor might suggest a more bland wording to describe the model.




Mauri Oaksmith

Mauri Oaksmith was also a local man living in Ballard at the time who had a lifelong love of the water and boating. In 1974 he and his wife Gwen bought a fishing boat called the Crystal S, and a crew of 5, including Mauri's brother John, were to leave Seattle to fish for several months. Magnes Eliassen was the skipper, Thomas Stava the engineer, and John Oaksmith, Tormod Khristensen, and Sam Samuelsen were the other three crew members. They were to go out for herring, then salmon, and then finish up in Alaska for the King Crab season. Mauri had known Gunnar for some time and was aware of his work on survival suits. The day before the Crystal S was to leave Seattle for the various fisheries, he contacted Gunnar in order to buy a set of suits for his crew. Gunnar either drove up to Bremerton, where the suits were being manufactured, or arranged to have them brought to him here in Seattle, and he delivered them the next day to Mauri at his office at Fisherman's Terminal. According to Mauri's wife Gwen, Mauri immediately brought them down to the Ballard Locks where their boat was in the lock waiting to begin their season. From the lockwall beside the large lock, Mauri began throwing Gunnar's suits to his brother on deck of the Crystal S. He explained to John what they were, where to stow them on board the boat, and most importantly, stressed to John that the crew were to try them out and make sure they knew how to put them on in case of emergency. Tests at the time mentioned that a complete novice would be able to put on one in about 40 seconds, but with one or two practice attempts, that time could be halved. Seconds matter!


The suits delivered, the crew set out and went about their planned fishing schedule winding up in Alaska in August for the crab season. They unloaded their recent crab haul at Captain's Bay on August 11, and loaded up 36 crab pots on deck and set out for more fishing about 2 AM August 12. Most of the crew headed for their bunks for some well earned rest as they set out again. About 5 AM the boat started to experience some problems and the wheel watch notified the engineer who started an inspection below deck. The bilges were not where the problem was but shortly the boat began to list heavily to one side. The alarm went up, the crew were awakened and a Mayday call was sent out. This call was acknowledged by the Coast Guard as well by the station on Akutan Island where they had set sail from. Immediately the Coast Guard set out to the location identified on the Mayday signal, and even more importantly so did seven other fishing boats in the area.

Relative locations from Seattle to Akutan, Alaska


Back on the Crystal S, the crew had by now put on their survival suits and launched their life raft. They were clearly going to have to abandon ship at this point. Somehow in the process of launching the life raft it started to inflate too soon and wound up getting tangled in the boats rigging. As the boat was sinking one of the crew managed to free the partially submerged life raft which immediately shot out from under the weight of the sinking boat, landing upside down some 50' from the crew who were now in the frigid Arctic waters. They swam to the life raft but were unable to turn it right side up so as to climb inside. Reports at the time indicate that there were swells of between 5' and 8', which would certainly make the task harder still. But they were able to all climb on top of the inverted life raft and were at least not adrift separately and apart from the raft.

About an hour or so later, they saw the Coast Guard ship Monroe which had responded to their Mayday call. But no one on the Monroe were able to see the raft and crew and after some time sailed back to port. One can only imagine the despondency the crew must have felt at seeing their presumed rescuers give up and sail away.

But of the seven other boats who also responded to the Mayday call, the Bering Sea, by great fortune was heading directly in the direction where the crew and raft had drifted after the Crystal S went down. The picture at the top of this post shows what must have been the happiest moment in the lives of the five crew members.


Mauri and John's father, Gerald, wrote a personal letter to all concerned thanking them all for their efforts which brought about a safe return for the crew of the Crystal S. No doubt there were many celebrations upon the crew's return to Seattle.

Gerald Oaksmith with 4 sons, John and Mauri on far right.


Here is the article from Fishermen's News from Aug 1974 which describes the sinking of the Crystal S and the rescue of the crew.

There was some dispute as to whether or not the raft deployed as it should have, or if the crew didn't concern themselves with righting the life raft. Probably it's a question we'll never know, but in any event it did lead to further efforts in improving safety in the fishing industry by recommending more training for the crew concerned, before any need to depend on using the equipment in an actual emergency.


Fishermen's News full page ad with suits, raft, lights and signaling device



National Fisherman Sept 1974



The above was part of a much longer article stressing the importance of increased training in the use of emergency equipment in hopes of saving lives in future accidents.

                           This is a drill!


The sinking of the Crystal S and the survival of the 5 crewmembers seems to have spurred many efforts in education and training of future crews in the emergency equipment their lives could well depend on should things go badly while at sea. Survival tests were conducted with and without survival suits to explore the limits of human endurance.


A collection of ads and articles would follow the sinking of the Crystal S and rescue of the crew. This dramatic episode caught the attention of all in the fishing industry and was a game changer for Gunnar Guddal and his company and spurred many others to make many changes in their approach to maritime safety. Although these survival suits would not become mandatory until the late '80s, their presence on fishing boats especially was increasing noticeably. Here's a few of the types of ads and articles you would have seen in trade magazines as well as daily newspapers. One of these features John Oaksmith himself and many of the others specifically mention the Crystal S, as its notoriety was especially well known in the Pacific Northwest.


The small "family suit" ad in the top center, is believed to be Gunnar with wife Elsie, daughter Kari and a family friend as the suit models.





\

Even Seattle's own Emmett Watson had his own unique contribution to make.


In 1992 there was a gathering to honor Gunnar Guddal and his life's achievements. Although Mauri Oaksmith was unable to attend this special night, he sent Gunnar a letter  expressing his deep and lifelong gratitude to him for the difference he made in his own life as well as countless others. It's worth keeping in mind that the successful outcome of this story is primarily due to two individuals. Gunnar Guddal, who spent years inventing a suit which could prevent the loss of lives, and Mauri Oaksmith, whose value of the lives of those around him, spurred him to provide these survival suits long before they were required. I'll close this post with a quote from Mauri himself in his letter to Gunnar.


Both Gunnar and Mauri have commemorative bricks at the Fishermen's Memorial at Fishermens Terminal.



Many thanks to Gwen Oaksmith who first brought us this story.
Thanks also to Alan Davis at Fishermen's Memorial for the information and contacts he provided.
Thanks to Kari Guddal, one such contact for a wealth of information about her father and his work.
Thanks to the librarians at Seattle Library, downtown branch as well as the librarians at the University of Washington. Invaluable help from all of them.
All articles and ads were printed in National Fisherman, Fishermen's News, Seattle PI, or the Seattle Times.

P.S. If you ever find yourself at a trade show, don't be so quick to overlook the next 9 year old girl demonstrating a product. She just might be showing you how you could save your own life!
 

Epilogue

Mauri Oaksmith passed away in 2021. His wife Gwen who first brought us this story, also sent a couple of other pictures I'll include here. The first is Mauri and Gwen enjoying their retirement years, long after the Crystal S episode.
 
 
Gwen and Mauri Oaksmith
 

Below is a picture of the extended Oaksmith family.
 
 

 
Seeing a large family gathering such as this, helps us to realize how many lives are affected by tragedies at sea. Considering there was a crew of 5 on the Crystal S when she went down, the number of survivors who deal with such losses rapidly reach "village" levels. Not to mention friends, acquaintances, colleagues ... all have benefited from Gunnar Guddal's survival suits.


Gunnar Guddal passed away in 2006. He left behind a legacy few could match and gratitude from countless others who likely never knew his name but were certainly indebted to him for his efforts.

Thursday, April 24, 2025

Visitor Center Juvenile Salmon

 


Salmon smolt tank at Visitor Center



The Visitor Center has a new display for viewing until sometime in May. It is a tank of salmon smolt which will be kept in the tank until they reach a size where they can be released into Lake Washington, eventually to make their way into Puget Sound and parts unknown for the following few years. Here's a good chance to see them and wish them Bon Voyage before they head off.
 
 

March 5 2025




March 21 2025

 

 

 


April 3 2025


April 12 2025

 











Wednesday, October 25, 2023

Center Gates Removal

Jan 2024 Center Gate progress photo from Greg Shaw

 

 Here's something you might see every 107 years or so. The center gates at the large lock were being removed recently and will be replaced late next year. This will necessarily cause disruptions in the use of the large lock as it will be closed for extended periods of time until the new gates are installed. Here's a link to the Army Corps page with projected dates for the closures.

Large lock closure information 

 

Both gates were removed late in the night so the public missed a great photo opportunity but for several days it was possible to see the work crews preparing for the rarely performed procedure. We know the gates were removed at least once before in 1973, brought to Tacoma for repairs and reinstalled again. Here's a few pics of the process.

 

Crane and barges entering large lock

 

Center gates partially open in preparation for removal


Using torch to burn through wood fender on gate

Axes, chainsaws, torches and crowbars were all used in cutting through the wood before installing the equipment used in lifting the gate from lock. on deck of the large crane was this smaller crane used in bringing the crew close enough to the gate to complete the process.



Here's a small video of a chainsaw in use to cut away a section of the wood fender.


 Chainsaw at work.

 

Photo by Fred Mitchell and published in Seattle Times Oct 18, 2023

 

 

In the meantime, the small lock also needed a little TLC. 



Small lock getting some attention

While all employees were hard at work, there was one who was clearly just phoning it in.





Wednesday, September 6, 2023

The Center Miter Gates Are Leaving Us

We received the following information today and will copy it from the Chittenden Locks Facebook page. Sounds like a great time and not to be missed. A bit of history is in the making.

The links below will direct you to a site where you can purchase the official tshirt. There doesn't seem to be any other registration information or requirements. If you have any questions, please direct them to Discover Your Northwest who are organizing this event.

(From the Facebook post) ...

Grab your family, friends and your running shoes 👟 for a commemorative Great Miter Retire 5K Fun Run at 10 am, Saturday, Oct. 7, 2023, at https://www.facebook.com/ChittendenLocks!
 
Our large lock center miter gates are the original gates and have facilitated navigation since 1916.
 
This October, we'll start work to replace them. Improving this 106-year-old navigation infrastructure will help us provide dependable navigation for the next 100+ years.
 
Walk 🚶‍♂️ 🚶‍♀️ or run 🏃‍♀️ 🏃 along these engineering marvels one last time during this fun run that'll start and end at these gates.
 
Registration is now open. Click 👉 https://www.discovernw.org/great-miter-gate-fun-run.html or scan the QC code, to register or for more info. 
 
All registration funds will go toward supporting new exhibits in our fish ladder viewing room.
😉
Here's our upcoming extended large lock center gate closure schedule: Lock Closure Schedule
Discover Your Northwest



Sunday, June 25, 2023

Lock Wall Roses at Small Lock Operating House Four

 Researched and written by Stephen Munro, gardener at the Chittenden Locks.


Teddy Roosevelt with rose in lapel

Operating House Four sits adjacent the small locks and is where lock attendants control
the valves and gates for those locks. Two large rose bushes seemingly burst out of the
desolate concrete of the lock wall monolith on the west and east sides of this structure.
The one on the west side is nearly thornless with large very fragrant double purple
flowers. The other, on the east side has large double pinks flowers that are also very,
very fragrant. Both appear to bloom seemingly all growing season from late-May to
September.

 

Rose Bush on western side

 

Friday, May 26, 2023

2023 Music At The Locks Summer Schedule

 The schedule for music concerts at the locks during the summer weekends is now available. They're free to attend and donations are appreciated. Come early to get your folding chair and enjoy some great music on the lawn.

Wednesday, February 1, 2023

Feb. 2 - Anniversary of the First Filling of the Locks

This post was first published in 2018. We've added some new content below the original article. In the article from the Seattle Post Intelligencer it names machinist Carl Sjogren as the individual who actually opened the valves admitting water into the chambers. If there are any descendants of Carl Sjogren who see this post, please send any photos or information you might have of his time at the Chittenden Locks. We'd be happy to add yet more local flavor to this post.

Update

In our own archives we've discovered a group photo where Carl Sjogren can be seen. He's standing in the back row, second from the right. This picture is dated August 1932, for a yet unknown occasion. We've also learned that he started working at the locks in 1912, while they were under construction, until his retirement in 1944. In the 1920 Census he had apparently changed the legal spelling of his name to Seagren. His death occurred in July 1953 in Mount Vernon, an area where he had lived before starting work at the locks. Perhaps the local Nordic community might like to propose that next Feb 2, could be named Carl Sjogren Day, after the machinist who first opened the valves to begin the first filling of the large lock chamber.