Preserving the History of the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks in Seattle, Washington

Contact us at friendsofthelocks@gmail.com
Showing posts with label locks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label locks. Show all posts

Sunday, March 8, 2026

David Williams and Jennifer Ott new book launch at MOHAI

Book Launch at Mohai March 24, 2026 

 

Local authors David Williams and Jennifer Ott will be giving a presentation at MOHAI on Tuesday March 24, which will accompany their new book launch. Here's a link to the MOHAI post for further information. The event is free with registration by following the link. This is an updated version of their 2017 book, Waterway, which told the story of the construction of the Lake Washington Ship Canal and the Chittenden Locks. A highly detailed story of the project from it's inception in the late 1800's through it's construction, completion in 1916 and was published just before the Centennial Anniversary of it's official dedication on July 4, 1917.

 

Mohai book launch 

 

 

The brochure below was created from historical maps and documents and was included in a time capsule for the Army Corps of Engineers, to be opened in 2075. It uses the same type of records and maps preserved and relating to the construction of the Ship Canal and Chittenden Locks. It gives a flavor of the historical value sure to be present in the author's new release.

 
 



 

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Aug 3, 1916 The Informal Opening of the Locks

Orcas in foreground, Swimomish in background.


For those of you who weren't here 100 years ago, here's some pictures of the informal opening of the Chittenden locks, then called the Government Locks, which was marked by the Swinomish and the Orcas, making the journey from Salmon Bay, through the large lock, out into Puget Sound and immediately back again. A crowd of over 1,000 attended the event and here follows a description written by Susan Connole of the event.

"August 3 is an important centennial anniversary in the history of the Chittenden locks, on that day in 1916 an informal celebration took place to commemorate the start of commercial operations.
Crowds gathered at 10 a.m. that morning to watch two government vessels make a ceremonial passage through the locks. The work boat "Swinomish" and the survey launch "Orcas" entered from the east, were lowered to Puget Sound, turned around under the Great Northern railroad bridge and returned upstream to Salmon Bay. On the "Swinomish" were Lt. Col. J.B. Cavanaugh, Army engineer who had supervised locks construction, Judge Roger S. Greene, who had fought for a canal for years, and Judge Thomas Burke, Chamber of Commerce president. Also on board were H.C. Gill, mayor of Seattle, A.W. Sargent, assistant engineer to Cavanaugh, and representatives of the Chamber, the Commercial Club, Seattle Port Commission, and other civic dignitaries. On board the "Orcas" were the wives and families of the engineers who worked on the canal project.
During that first month of operation 1,558 vessels went through the locks in 1,134 lockages. Most of the traffic was wood products- logs, lumber, shingles, etc.- but tugs, fishing boats, and sand and gravel barges, were part of the traffic. Three sailboats went through the locks that month."


Swimomish in Lock, Engineer A.W Sargeant, and Col. J.B.Cavanaugh (standing). Seattle Times Aug 3, 1916 





















Seattle Times Aug 3,1916

 All photos are courtesy of the U.S Army Corps of Engineers except where noted.


Tuesday, May 17, 2016

100 Years Ago

ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO…


If you were visiting the locks in May of 1916 this is what you would have seen.

  1. This view taken from the railroad bridge shows the completed large lock with all the gates kept open to allow the tidal flow into Salmon Bay. The small lock is not yet done, there are still cofferdams at both ends so work can continue within the lock. The slope west of the administration building has been terraced as we see it today.




  1. On the south side of the canal work is progressing on the spillway dam with the spillway and the lower apron about half completed, the dam will be finished in about 3 months.



  1. This photo is taken from the Fremont bridge, the newly dug Fremont canal heads westward toward the shingle mills at the head of Salmon Bay. The lock site is further west in Salmon Bay, in 10 weeks the gates of the locks will be closed to flood Salmon Bay to its current height of 20 feet above sea level.





Photos: Corps of Engineers             Display: Friends of the Ballard Locks

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

2013 Large Lock Inspection

The large will be closed to boat traffic from Nov. 5, 2013 until Nov. 20, 2013 so that the lock can be inspected and maintenance performed as necessary. The small lock is still operating for smaller vessels. Even though you won't be able to watch the large vessels locking through, It is still worth a trip to see and appreciate the enormity of this site.


The large lock almost emptied.


Here is a link to a previous post describing the process and with pictures taken during the closing

2012 post of large lock inspection

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

July Friends’ Meeting: Tour the Locks!

LTC Cavanaugh and assistants pose in front of the newly
constructed Administration Building, Feb 1916.
For July's monthly meeting, the Friends of the Ballard Locks will host an historical overview of the locks and the key people who made it the extraordinary place that it is today.  The tour is scheduled for Thursday July 19th and will begin 7:00 pm at the Visitor Center. Please enter through the south doors.  The tour will take about an hour and will end in the Administration Building. The tour is open to the public. An RSVP is not required, but if you would like more information about the evening tour or the Friends of the Ballard Locks organization, contact susanatthelocks@gmail.com or check with the Hiram Chittenden Locks Visitors Center.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

This Fourth of July Marks 95 Years

Researched and written by Tom O'Grady.

Seattle Daily Times July 5, 1917 

July 4, 1917: The Official Opening and Dedication of the Government Locks

The picture above shows the parade of boats as they navigate the ship canal into Lake Washington and back to the Sound on July 4, 1917. The locks had actually been in operation for several months by this date but it was decided to have a grand celebration to commemorate a project that required decades of planning and 5 years of hard work to complete.

Every July 4 features celebrations of the anniversary of America's Independence and this day was even more memorable by the locks official opening, coming as it did only months after the U.S entered World War l. The navy had originally planned to build a base at this location and the locks were to be an integral part of this decision.

How the locks appeared in 1917. Seattle Daily Times

The day featured military parades in downtown Seattle, swearing in ceremonies for new citizens and music and entertainment all around the city. The Roosevelt was to be the first “official” vessel to make the journey from Puget Sound to inland lakes and back out to the Sound again, accompanied on this day by more than 200 parade vessels, and joined afterwards by Seattle-ites with anything and everything that would float. Tickets were available which would allow interested parties to be a part of the procession.

Seattle Daily Times

The image to the left is of an ad from the Seattle Daily Times offering passage on the steamer Sioux as part of the parade. The price was $1.00 which was not an insignificant sum in those days. At least one ad from this year referred to a Union Mechanic's wages as $8.00 per day.

According to Newell, ed., McCurdy Marine History, the Sioux was the first commercial vessel to pass through the locks during the opening ceremony on July 4, 1917.







The Sioux circa 1912. Photo from the U.W. Special  Collections. PH Coll 794.55
On the right is a picture of the Sioux taken several years before. It was built by the Moran Co. in 1910 and its founder Robert Moran will be mentioned later in this article as he was a strong supporter of the Locks project and a local dignitary.

The Locks celebration started in downtown Ballard with a parade headed by the Ballard Boosters starting at 1:15 pm and proceeding to the Government Locks (the official name at the time). After arrival, there would be a concert by the Seattle City Band, speeches by Col. Cavanaugh, Capt.Coontz, Maj. Dent and several judges. A street carnival and rose show would follow. The water parade would begin at 2:30 pm with the Roosevelt being the first "official" ocean going ship to make the inland journey into Lake Union and Lake Washington. Then to end the evening there would be prizes awarded for the rose entries and a dance starting at 9:00 pm.

The Roosevelt heading the parade.
The Roosevelt was in fact the ship that Admiral Peary had sailed in his successful trip to reach the North Pole and so it was fitting that such a noted vessel would be selected to lead this historic event. Or perhaps it was Elmer Reed in his humble canoe who seized the moment. More on that later. With the Roosevelt in the lead a slow procession of ships, boats, tugs and just about anything which could float started up the canal to its eventual destination at Leschi Park . It was estimated that well over 100,000 people were scattered along the Ship Canal in order to witness this once-in-a-lifetime occurrence. Seattle's population at the timed was reported to be 360,000, so this represented the largest single gathering in the city so far.

With the rest of the vessels in line behind the Roosevelt, the parade proceeded along the canal headed for Leschi Park. As mentioned earlier there were 200 plus official vessels in this parade and a strict and orderly distance of 150 feet was to be kept between all. It took over one hour for the entire parade to pass any specific point and this was not including all the private vessels who took to the water and joined in the celebration.

The first three boats in parade.
While approaching Leschi Park it was discovered that one of the government dredges used on the canal had moored at the only available pier, making it impossible for the Roosevelt to tie up along the shore. The passengers on the Roosevelt would have to be taken on tugs so as to take part in the activities on land. While heading to pick up a second load of dignitaries, one of the tugs rammed a rowboat which was carrying one Senator Landon with two other unnamed gentlemen. The Senator saw the oncoming tug and realizing a collision was inevitable abandoned the rowboat, diving headlong into the lake. According to the newspaper, "The Golden Gate (tug) carried the rowboat fully 100 feet away, but Landon swam to it and was pulled out, shedding water and maledictions impartially." A phrase worthy of Mark Twain himself.

More speeches and proclamations were given and one of the earliest Boeing airplanes (the biplane in top picture) circled overhead to add to the already impressive spectacle. Another curious mention in the paper was of the female guests on board the Roosevelt. No names were given, but simply a mention that they were guests of the officers of the ship. Rank has its privileges!

By now evening was at hand and it was time for the return portion of the journey. Some of the unofficial vessels in the parade dropped off along the route to take part in various activities which were taking place all over Seattle but the length of the procession was still like nothing seen before or since. Considering the number of vessels taking part in the day's events it is noteworthy the almost total absence of mishaps. But then the day was not quite over.

Robert Moran, retired owner of Moran Co., successful businessman, past mayor of Seattle, and long a champion of the canal project, had been near the front of this flotilla on board his yacht Sanwan. He had retired to what has become known as Rosario Resort (in the San Juan Islands), in a mansion built to celebrate the retirement years of a very successful man. He was representing the Seattle Yacht Club, sailing his latest creation launched a year before. The day had been a resounding success and after completing the locks transit and heading back for his home on Orcas Island, the Sanwan ran aground approximately where 60th St NW would be. Three tugs were dispatched in an effort to free the vessel but were unsuccessful and had to wait until 2:30 am and the rising tide to do what the tugs couldn't.

Robert Moran's yacht Sanwan.

The evening would have the requisite fireworks and all the excitement they always bring out, but without question the singular event of this Independence Day was the parade celebrating the completion of Lake Washington Ship Canal. Succeeding anniversaries would be memorable but of course nothing compared to the first one. We will have to see what might happen in 2017, which will mark the centenary anniversary of the Chittenden Locks.

Seattle Daily Times ad July 5 1917.
The Roosevelt in the large Lock July 4, 1917.













Sources:
The Seattle Daily Times
The Seattle Post Intelligencer
MOHAI
Wikipedia
U.W Special Collections
All photos courtesy of The United States Army Corps of Engineers except where noted.
The Hiram M. Chittenden Locks (formerly The Government Locks) located in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle, Washington is an active site managed by of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Remember Elmer Reed? Here's a link to an article describing his claim to fame at the Chittenden Locks on July 4, 1917
http://blog.friendsoftheballardlocks.org/2010/07/help-us-confirm-whos-in-first.html

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

The White Sands passes through the Locks, October 4, 1975

Researched and Written by Tom O'Grady

The dry dock White Sands entering the lock Oct. 4, 1975

On October 4, 1975 this would be what you would see if you were down at  the Ballard Locks between 1:00 and 5:00 pm. The full story behind this photo has not been told and is only known by a few but we are attempting to gather the complete details concerning this day at the Ballard  Locks.


What you are seeing in this photo is the dry dock  "White Sands"  being towed stern first into the large lock by the Josie Foss, captained by Bob Hayden and  the Dorothy Foss, captained by Lee Crider (just behind the dry dock).   This was the second attempt to bring the dry dock into Lake Union. The  first attempt on Sept. 9th failed when one of the barges attached to  the hull broke loose. The barges were used as part of the plan to angle the dry dock sufficiently so as to clear the walls of the lock. We are still looking for others with information concerning the failed first attempt. Any tug operators,  pilots, crew or witnesses to the event are invited to contact us with  your memories of the day. It is worth noting that this was just the latest in unique events involving the dry dock, and some of that history we can tell here.



Saturday, March 17, 2012

Small Lock Pumpout Completed

It is time for the annual inspection, cleaning, and maintenance of the small lock!


On March 13, the water remaining in the chamber was pumped out so the lower walls and floor are accessible.


The pumps for this operation are located underneath the Administration Building. If you peek in the basement windows, you may be able to see some of the plumbing for the pumps.


It takes about 4 hours to drain the small lock whereas the large lock (pictured left) requires about 10 hours to pump dry. See previous entries on the Large Lock Pump Out and More Pump Out Pictures.


Without unforeseen findings, the small lock re-opened to boat traffic by March 23.





See the Official Hiram M. Chittenden Locks page for the most current updates and information about the locks and the ship canal.


Next on the "to-do" list usually is installation of the smolt flumes on the spillway dam around April 16th and fish ladder cleaning in June.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Ballard Locks Closed Tuesday August 23, 2011

Both locks will be closed to boat traffic August 23 from 9:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. for regular inspection of the salmon exclusion structure.

Also posted by @ChittendenLocks and MyBallard.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

100 Years Ago This Month: Major Cavanaugh Begins Work in Seattle

August 1, 1911 – Major James Bates Cavanaugh is assigned to the Corps of Engineers Seattle District to oversee the construction of the locks and the Lake Washington Ship Canal.

It was Maj. Hiram M. Chittenden whose vision and political skills resulted in the placement of the locks at Salmon Bay, however he had to take early medical retirement in 1909. Major C.W. Kutz served as head of the Seattle District until Cavanaugh was appointed in 1911.



James Bates Cavanaugh's West Point Graduation photo, Class of 1892.

Major Cavanaugh was then working in Washington D.C. as Assistant to the Chief of Engineers. He had graduated first in his class from West Point Military Academy (1892) and was an extremely capable and well-respected officer. He had worked on many river and harbor projects around the country, as well as teaching Field Engineering at the Post School for Officers. He was selected for the Seattle assignment, not only for his technical experience, but his proven diplomatic skills that were needed to complete this enormous engineering project.

In March 1915 he was promoted to Lt. Colonel; then in April 1917, with the United States now involved in World War I, he was assigned to command the 18th Engineers at American Lake, WA (now Joint Base Lewis/McChord) and promoted to Colonel prior to sailing for France in July 1917. Cavanaugh House is named in his honor.


Information for this article was gathered from the U.S.Military Academy/West Point and the Seattle District Army Corps of Engineers.

Monday, August 1, 2011

Audio Tour of the Locks

The US Army Corps of Engineers Seattle District enters the podcasting world with this audio tour of the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks. Look for more audio tours from the district in the future.

US Army Corps of Engineers Audio Tour of the Locks
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers manages and operates 192 navigational lock sites home to 237 lock chambers across the nation. The Northwestern Division has 10 of those lock chambers. Each year more than 40,000 vessels pass through the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks in the Seattle District. Come and experience a tour with our audio podcast. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Info: Locks Closure Tuesday June 7th 2011

Both locks will be closed from 7:30 AM to 1:00 PM on Tuesday, June 7th for inspection of ASES (the Adult Salmon Exclusion Structure).

Reprinted with permission for information purposes:

Hiram M. Chittenden Locks
5 1/2 Hour Lock Closure, June 7th 2011

On Tuesday, June 7th 2011, both the large lock and small lock will be closed from 0730-1300, for an inspection of the Adult Salmon Exclusion Structure. The structure is in place near the middle pier between the east entrances to both locks. There will be divers in the water during this time period, preventing lock operations. The only exception will be for emergency vessels (Seattle Fire Dept., Seattle Police, and Coast Guard) on an emergency call. Any questions should be referred to David Carpenter, Navigation Supervisor 206-789-2622 ext.202, or the Lockmaster on duty, 206-783- 7000

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

House on the Hill at the Locks: Cavanaugh House

Did you ever wonder who lives in the white house on the hill in the garden at the Chittenden Locks?


Photo 1: Cavanaugh House upon completion in 1913

Cavanaugh House, named for Col. James Bates Cavanaugh, the engineer in charge of locks construction from 1911 to 1917, is home to the Army Corps of Engineer’s Chief Engineer during their 3-year tenure with the Seattle District.


Photo 2: Cavanaugh’s signature on house blueprints; every drawing and blueprint for the locks was hand drawn and bears Cavanaugh’s signature of approval.

Completed in 1913 for a total cost of $7,840, it was one of the first concrete homes built in Seattle. There is no specific architect named on the drawings, but it is a modest, symmetric design common to the era. Amazingly, it was completed within 75 days of the construction contract being signed. Originally it was intended to be the home for the Locks’ electrician so they would be close at hand if a fuse blew any time day or night. However most electricians already lived nearby and chose to stay in their own homes. The house went unoccupied for long periods of time and fell into disrepair.

In 1966 it was proposed that the house be renovated to become the official residence of the Chief Engineer/Seattle District. Upon completion of the remodel it was dedicated as Cavanaugh House on January 16, 1967 and a permanent plaque installed December 10, 1974.

Photo 3: By February of 1915, the lock walls are formed, smoke from the sawmills around Salmon Bay hovers in the background.


Photo 4: Note the construction progress in October 1915, the lower cofferdam has been removed and the north terraces have been graded.

As the first completed structure of the huge Lake Washington Ship Canal project, early photos show the house standing isolated among the chaos of locks construction. Gradually it was surrounded by the locks structures and as Carl S. English, Jr. developed the gardens it became part of the landscape. While situated in a public garden, Cavanaugh House is a private home and is closed to the public.


Photo 5: This photo ca. 1920 taken from the south side of the administration building shows the house standing proudly on the hill.

Photo 6: In this photo ca. 1950 we see the handiwork of Carl English Jr.


Photo 7: Cavanaugh House today.

The name Hiram Chittenden is familiar to the local populace but James B. Cavanaugh is lesser known. Both men were extraordinary engineers who made valuable contributions to our city and our country. Check the previous blog article about Chittenden and stay tuned for more about Colonel Cavanaugh coming soon.







Information for this article was sourced from USACE Publication “Engin-Ears”, August 1979

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Steelhead at the Locks (or not.)

Onchorynchus mykiss is a mouthful in more ways than one. It is tricky to say, and it tastes delicious! It’s also a fish that is very rarely seen in the viewing window of the fish ladder. At one time there were two to three thousand steelhead migrating through the Chittenden Locks in winter. Nowadays you are quite lucky to see just one!

What are Steelhead?

Steelhead are a type of Pacific salmon. Like other Pacific salmon, they rear in fresh water until they become smolts, then migrate to the ocean. This stage can last anywhere from about one to four years.


Once in the ocean, they can travel thousands of miles; they keep getting larger as they find larger food sources, usually in colder waters. This stage can also last from one to four years. Upon returning to their native streams, they will deposit eggs. Unlike their cousins the Coho, Chinook, Sockeye, Chum, and Pink salmons, the Steelhead are not always destined to die after they spawn; they may return to the ocean several times in their lives. In that way they are more similar to their distant cousins the Atlantic salmon. Steelhead are quite difficult to track, but some have been tagged and are known to have traveled all the way from the Columbia River basin to the Sea of Japan and back, in their lifetime.

If an Onchorynchus mykiss spends its entire life in fresh water, it is called a Rainbow Trout. They are the same species, but have differing lifestyles. Steelhead normally weigh about 8-11 pounds, but can get as hefty as 40 pounds or more. They are quite silvery in color, with many spots on all parts of their bodies, and a reddish or rainbow hue along their sides.

The run of Steelhead that came through the locks was a winter run and was therefore fully mature when they returned upstream. Summer runs come back younger and stay in the rivers until they mature.


So, What Happened to the Steelhead at the Locks?


The numbers of Steelhead have gone from about 2600 in 1983 to less than 10 in more recent years. It is difficult to get any numbers after 2008, when four fish were counted in the rivers that feed into Lake Washington. At that time only two redds were found; a redd is a nest with eggs in it.

The numbers of these fish in the Lake Washington system are so low that they seem to be on the verge of extinction. With that said, a few are seen every year and there are probably some that pass through without being seen or identified at all.

There are many factors that have contributed to their decline, such as destruction of habitat, pollution, man-made obstacles such as dams, ocean conditions and over-harvesting. It is also possible that some have decided to remain in fresh water and essentially convert to their Rainbow Trout mode. We also know that Steelhead prefer a fast, cold river to breed and rear in. Unfortunately, the water above the Locks is warmer than it was at one time, due to the urbanization of the environment.

Of all the factors have affected the Steelhead, none is as obvious and dramatic as the yearly visitation of the California sea lions. The most famous of these hungry predators was called Herschel. He arrived in 1983 and discovered that steelhead were pretty easy pickings at the Locks. That was when the steelhead run first began to decline.

Herschel, and other large male sea lions voraciously ate over half of the returning steelhead that returned to the locks for several years in a row. Although there were often as many as 40 or more sea lions in the area, it was observed that most of the devastation was usually caused by two or three of the largest ones.

While the steelhead counts have continued to decline, the sea lion counts have been growing. In 1972 the Marine Mammal Protection Act was first enacted. Since that protection was put in place, the number of California sea lions increased from around 50,000 to around 250,000. Each year shows a small percentage of increased population growth.

Numerous methods were employed to deter these Pinnipeds, (fin-footed mammals), but nothing was very effective. Some of the techniques used were underwater firecrackers, known as seal bombs; rubber bullets; acoustic harassment devices; nets; and poisoned fish. The sea lions were also trucked several times to other areas as far away as California, but always swam back. At best, these methods slowed the sea lions down, but not for long. Each time, they got wiser and more sure of themselves.

Meanwhile, the steelhead run has not been able to recover. The original run was a wild run; at one point a hatchery run was introduced with the hope of enhancing the numbers. Unfortunately, they competed with the wild fish instead.

There is no easy answer to this steelhead situation. What will become of the once wild steelhead run in Lake Washington? If a run still exists will it ever grow? Perhaps, we will have to go elsewhere to celebrate this beautiful fish, our state fish.

Article written for FoBL Blog by Stacey Gilbert

Information for this article was sourced from:

“Stock Report-Lake Washington Winter Steelhead.” wdfw.wa.gov 2009. 01 February, 2011. http://fortress.wa.gov/dfw/gispublic/apps/salmonscape/salmonscapeJSP/summaryStockReport.jsp?SasiStkNum=6154

Guterson, David. ”This Seal Doesn’t Have Everyone’s Approval.” http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com 1990. 23 January 2011. http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1137071/index.htm

“Steelhead.” www.kingcounty.gov. 2008. 05 January, 2011. http://www.kingcounty.gov/environment/animalsAndPlants/salmon-and-trout/identification/steelhead.aspx